JUNE 2009   SUMMER OF SWELL

 Somewhere on the North Coast     Photos by WK, Wes, and Charlie from f8surf.com                                                                                                                                                        

Charlie from http://f8surf.com shot this photo of me pulling into a left somewhere around town. It was a nice evening, and these shots will bring back good memories for me years to come from this surfing timeframe.

Self portrait reflection of myself, Charlie, and his car off of Charlies water-housing/ lens cover. 

Charlie from F8surf.com took this sequence of me. These are probably the best water photos Ive ever seen of myself. Thanks for shooting Charlie.                                                                                   

It was really late in the evening, and I really wasnt expecting Charlie to get shots like these. This one is my favorite.                                                        

It was an awesome sunset, and the view from inside the barrel jus made it that much better.                                                                                                         

This Pointbreak rarely breaks, but when it does it can be epic. My friends and I revere surf sessions here for years after.

Here my  kids Willow and Kai hike down a trail North of Santa Cruz, to chill on a secret beach.

This wave breaks over a really shallow reef.

This is what I was surfing by myself for days on end The South swell and no wind meant alot of spots were good. Alot of people will probably think this is somewhere they know, but its probably not where you think it is. Its way up North, right in the Center of the Red Triangle.

 Charlie from F8SURF.COM got a few cool shots before then sun went down. 

An eagle eyes view of an empty nug.

Checking it out from the cliff... wow!

The reef is really very shallow here, with dry spots on low tide.

This is some High Tide backwash off this rock shelf way up North.       

A few friends and I showed up at this beach and there were some solid shacks bowling right on the sand.

This Right Pointbreak is really close to home, but I bet you couldnt guess where for a million years. This is a rare moment at this place, and it doesnt happen like this enough.    

This photo was taken right on the peak of the interval and size on the biggest South Swell of the year so far. The outside wave pictured here is big, trust me.

It doesnt get much more beautiful than this. Smaller fun days like this make me smile for a week.

This beachbreak rarely gets good, and its way the hell up North. You have to be a damn Scientist to figure out all of the ingredients for this place. Once you do it can come together for you.         

A beautiful day somewhere  way up on the North Coast.                                                         

This eerie Right point gets good sometimes, but I think it has a really sharky vibe. It creeps me out... I dont know why.

A late evening  Reverse I busted at an isolated spot somewhere in California.

My kids paddling back out in a really warm evening at the beach.       

aSome evening shorebreak dancing up the beach.       

Another amazing California sunset.                           

Some of the tools that were used during the capture of these images.

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