
2008
RACING
TO
THE
SUMMER
SURFER:WK
PHOTOG:
jARROD
BRAY

THIS NORMALLY CLOSED-OUT BEACH BREAK is just like most beaches in California. The winter pushes all the sand around, and by spring theres usually great sand bars everywhere until the mid-summer. The difference is that this place turns into a sand-point break....

If I slowed down at all I couldnt make the wave. It was racetracking accross the bar, and you had to keep up or fall down.

The waves were lined up all the way down the sand point.
shot
1

I barely snuck under the curtain of this sand beast, and a moment later I was pitted.

Jamming down the line, applying pressure.

.

Floating through the inside section. Almost looks like a floater over reef, eh?

My boy Burn-dogg used to say " nice roundhouse-wraparound-roundabout- cutback bro"


This is called a switchfoot-snap. I may or may not have invented it.. but I have it on lock.

Oh yeah.... I also got beat. This was not your basic wipeout.