With the amount of surf I have seen in the last few weeks I have to say this has been one hell of an October.

 

It seems like theres been waves every day, and swells have been hitting every weekend for the last four, making September pretty damn good as well.

 

Theres been a lot of different spots breaking, and I love to catch the little rare spots that don't break too often.

Words by Wayne Kelly

 

Photos by:

 

 WK

 

Holly Hamilton

 

Dewey

 

Catie Hurst

 

 

Its pretty obvys that these ladies don't surf.

 

How could you not be mesmerized by this little righthander!

Rebounding off the whitewater after a roundhouse cutback.

Photo by Holly Hamilton

Da boyz always lurkin and creepin.

John Pennington negotiates the staircase ledge.

Brian Simpson snaps on a fun day at the beach.

Brian again, busting the the lefts as well.

Luke Braddock snaps hard on the really fun rights.

Lil Ron Kirk, one of the youngest rippers I have seen around here. Hes been stepping it up, and here he negotiates a drop in the very rocky croppings of “Da Pier”. His dad must be proud.

 

Lil Ron had two weeks out of school, and surfed many days straight due to the great October swells. He is getting better every wave.

 

Too bad big Ron had to work!

Another kid really stepping it up at the rock break is a young girl named Shenoa Ferpo. She is twelve years old, but surfs beyond her years.

 

She has a great tube-stance, and Ive already seen her lock into a few pits. Its pretty obvys she has skills.

 

Her dad Rick is fanatical about her surfing, and he is a local legend in these parts.

 

Keep an eye on this girl… she could do some big things in surfing if she keeps at it.

Todd “Sharkboy” Endris was attacked by a great-white shark at Marina Beach, here in California last August of 2007.

 

My housemate and friend Wes Williams and Brian Simpson were there, and helped him on the beach to survive the ordeal.

 

Todd claims the dolphins surrounded the shark and beat it with their tales. Maybe dolphins are mans best friend, I dunno.

 

Almost exactly a year later, Todd paddled out at the same part of the beach while I was shooting photos, and was surrounded by dolphins again. Coincidence? I don't know, but Id bet you a lot of money it was the same dolphins.

My little secret spot that no one surfs. It never breaks, so don't worry about where it is.. More photos of it here.